Chirripo National Park in Central Costa Rica, protects 50,150 hectares of high-elevation terrain surrounding Cerro Chirripo (3,819 meters), Central America's highest peak. The national park is contiguous with La Amistad International Peace Park to the south; together they form the Amistad-Talamanca Regional Conservation Unit. Much of this Costa Rica area remains terra incognito--a boon for flora and fauna, which thrive here relatively unmolested by humans. One remote section of the national park is called Savannah of the Lions, after its large population of pumas. Tapirs and jaguars are both common, though rarely seen. And the mountain forests protect several hundred bird species.

Cloud forest, above 2,500 meters, covers almost half the national park, which features three distinct life zones; the park is topped off by subalpine rainy paramo, marked by contorted dwarf trees and marshy grasses that dry out on the Pacific slopes January-May (presenting perfect conditions for raging fires fanned by high winds). Much of this area still bears the scars of a huge fire that raged across 2,000 hectares in April 1992, causing such devastation that the park was closed for four months. The region is still trying to recover from this and even worse fires in 1976 and 1985.

Mount Chirripo was held sacred by pre-Columbian peoples. Tribal leaders and shamans performed rituals atop the lofty shrine; lesser mortals who ventured up Chirripo were killed. Magnetic fields are said to swing wildly at the top, particularly near Los Crestones, huge boulders thought to have been the most sacred of indigenous sites.

Just as Hillary climbed Everest "because it was there," so Chirripo lures the intrepid who seek the satisfaction of reaching the summit (the first recorded climb was made by a priest, Father Agustín Blessing, in 1904). Many Ticos choose to hike the mountain during the week preceding Easter, when the weather is usually dry. Avoid holidays, when the huts may be full. The hike is no Sunday picnic but requires no technical expertise. The trails are well marked, and there is potable water at the halfway point, where there is also a primitive shelter. It will take you a full day to get to the hostel, where you will spend the night, getting up early the next day to finish the 3-4 hours to the summit. You will return to the hostel for the night, after spending several hours on top of the highest peak in Central America. The trip down will take most of the next day.

To start your trek, you will first stay overnight in San Gerardo de Rivas, where you begin your hike early the next day. The hostel, which is 3/4 of the way up... will serve as refuge after your first day hiking. You must reserve a bunk space before starting to climb... make your reservations at the ranger station in Rivas.

Excessive wear and tear on the trails led the National Parks Service to begin phasing in new regulations in 1993. Only 60 visitors are allowed within Chirripo National Park at any one time (you may be told there's a waiting list; experienced hikers recommend showing up anyway as there are usually lots of no-shows). The park service is pushing the lesser-known Herradura Trail (minimum three days/two nights), via Paso de los Indios, with the first night atop Cerro Urán.

Chirripo Weather
The weather is unpredictable and potentially dangerous--dress accordingly. The hike to the summit from San Gerardo ascends 2,500 meters. When the bitterly cold wind kicks in, watch out. Winds can approach 160 kph: the humidity and wind-chill factor can drop temperatures to -5° C. Rain is always a possibility, even in "dry season," and a short downpour usually occurs mid-afternoon. Fog is almost a daily occurrence at higher elevations, often forming in midmorning. And temperatures can fall below freezing at night (some of the lakes near the summit are a legacy of the glacial ages). Time your hiking right, however, and you should be close to shelter when needed. Who knows, you may have good weather the whole way; February and March are the driest months.

Chirripo Information
The park headquarters is in San Gerardo de Rivas (there's no telephone). It has toilets and a conference room. It's open 6 a.m.-5 p.m. The park rangers are very helpful. You can buy a handy Visitors Guide (75 cents) and a map (75 cents) showing trails and landmarks to the summit; the station does not sell 1:50,000 topographical survey maps, however. The park is administered from the La Amistad Biosphere Reserve office in San Isidro, tel. 771-3155 or 771-4836, fax 771-3297.

Entrance costs $6, plus $4 for each night's use of hostel.
There communal cooking facilities at the hostel, but no food is sold. You must bring enough food for 3 days, as well as enough water to get you to the 1st refill station, about 6 hours from the base. For those who didn't prepare well, there are propane burners for rent (to cook on) as well as wool army blankets to rent for $2 dollars each. It gets cold up there, so prepare well!

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